Archive for the ‘Advice’ Category
HDTV is a big improvement over the CRT TVs of the past. But, you don’t get a great picture right out of the box. There are some things you should know first.
The Essentials.
To see in high-definition, you need…
- a High Definition TV,
- a High Definition Receiver, and
- High Definition Programming.
Each involves lots of elements that determine the image, performance, and enjoyment you get from an HDTV. To find the solution that works best for you, it is important to understand how each impacts the use of your HDTV in the setting you plan to use it (living room, computer, gaming, movies, bedroom, etc.).
High Definition TV Settings.
There are many options for an HDTV. There is DLP, projector lamps, plasma, and LCD. In almost every case, the TV you get will not be adjusted properly for the setting you plan to use it. This means you will need to calibrate it.
Brightness and Contrast.
Changing brightness controls black levels.
Changing contrast controls white levels.
If you adjust these correctly, colors become more vibrant.
Brightness that is too bright, results in colors that can look washed out or faded.
Contrast that is incorrect results in an unrealistic picture or one that looks blurry.
Lighting.
Brightness and contrast depend on the lighting in your room. This becomes a problem for rooms that are exposed to natural light in the daytime and artifical light at night. Cloudy days, sunny days, and rainy days affect the display of an HDTV in a room that is exposed to natural light. Keep this in mind when calibrating your TV.
It is best if you can control light levels in the room where the HDTV is watched. This makes it much easier to find a setting that works for as many conditions as possible.
Games, Movies, TV, and PC.
For gaming consoles, settings may be different than for blu-ray movies. Or, TV soap operas may not be optimized for the same settings as an HD movie on the Discovery channel. If you don’t want to continually change your TV settings, determine how you are most likely to use the TV and adjust settings accordingly.
Aspect Ratio.
The aspect ratio determines the image dimensions displayed on the screen. HDTVs (if they are any good) let you adjust the aspect ratio.
If you change the default aspect ratio, it will “Stretch” the picture. This can make the screen image look fatter or longer than it should. Whether changing this setting improves the screen image depends on what you are watching
Pixel Mapping.
The sharpest pictures use 1:1 Pixel mapping. Standard resolution video may shrink so it’s only a tiny video on your large screen. Your TV uses only a fraction of the resolution (480i) your TV delivers (1080i).
Gaming.
1:1 pixel mapping with a xbox 360 on a 1080p HDTV displays a smaller image than the tv screen delivers. However, it is larger than standard tv video (480i), since it’s 720p. This produces a very crisp, clear picture.
For HDTVs with a 1366×768 resolution, using the 1:1 feature, don’t be surprised if Xbox 360 gaming, 720p movies, and 720p TV look better with it than without it.
Issues.
Without 1:1 pixel mapping, you may get over- or under-scanning. Regular cable TV may not support this. However, a 1080p input from a PS3 or PC will support 1:1 pixel mapping.
When using your HDTV as a computer monitor, 1:1 pixel mapping is very important, even crucial.
Overscan and Underscan.
Over or underscan is when the PC screen doesn’t fit the HDTV screen because it’s too big or too small to fit.
Video cards resize on an 8×12 pattern. If your HDTV is 1280×720, divide 1280 by 8, and 720 by 12. HDTVs that divide “Evenly” work best as PC monitors, including with HDMI.
Those HDTVs at 1366×768 and using HDMI have a lot of trouble as PC monitors. Since 1366 does not divide by 8 evenly, text looks ugly, or you have over or underscan.
High Definition Receiver.
The type of cable you use with your HDTV from the receiver matters.
Best to Worst cables to use from the receiver to your HDTV.
(1 is best)
- (1) HDMI, or DVI
- (2) vga
- (3) Component
- (4) S-Video
- (5) Composite
- (6) Coaxial
When you use the worst connector with your HDTV, video quality suffers.
VGA could cause banding on LCD HDTVs. This rates VGA below dvi. The larger the lcd monitor the more likely you see problems with VGA (compared to DVI).
High Definition Programming.
When viewing standard definition video on a HDTV, you need to scale the video to fit the monitor.
Standard Definition vs. High-Definition.
Consider someone wearing shoes that are 3 sizes too big. The shoes slide off their feet and are difficult to wear. For a person with bigger feet, they fit much better.
Standard definition on a HDTV is like the person wearing shoes 3 sizes too big. HD Channels are the person with the bigger feet. The picture looks much better when viewing HD channels on a HDTV than standard definition ever will.
Some argue that brightness on a CRT looks better than LCD HDTV. So, for a standard definition signal, colors look better on the CRT.
Don’t expect regular TV to look great on a HDTV. These TVs are designed for high definition content, not regular TV channels.
Upscalers.
To get a better standard definition picture on your HDTV, consider an upscaler. Upscalers increase the resolution for regular TV or DVDs. The main benefit of this is the deinterlacing quality.
Popularity: 12%
You’ve made an investment in advanced TV technology, the HDTV lamp. To get the most life out of your set, here are some important issues to consider.
Heavy Vibrations.
A DLP is sensitive when…
- kids jump up and down on the floor,
- there are heavy footsteps that vibrate the floor where the TV sits, and
- excessive volume comes from a home theater system subwoofer.
The above causes vibration to the display. If your display vibrates, so does your lamp. That COULD cause an instant failure.
Power On/Power Off.
Do not regularly turn your TV on and off. Lamps are arc-based. This means when you turn the power on, it “strikes” the lamp.
This is THE most destructive process to your lamp. It is one of the biggest causes of shortened lamp life. Limit this to 2-3 times a day, at most. Instead of turning the TV off for a few hours, just leave it on. This is also true for old CRT technology.
Give It Air.
Watch out for enclosed settings/rooms without good ventilation. Air movement is key to the transfer of outgoing warm air with incoming cool air.
A Clean Filter.
Not all DLPs have filters. For those that do, the owner’s manual has instructions on how to replace it. This is important, if you want to make your lamp last longer. It keeps the light path cool and at peak efficiency. With LCD projection, it stops debris from getting into the light path, which degrades image performance.
Turn It Off.
Most sets have a 10-60 second delay when starting a power down sequence. This is to prevent unnecessary lamp striking in the case of unintented power down commands.
For Toshiba, they have an “Instant Startup” menu item. Using it is easy. While the set is on, press the power button. In 10 seconds, press the power button again. In just a few moments, the picture returns (at least it should). If it takes a minute or longer, or the power on is being ignored, it means the lamp was turned off. It will not turn on again until the sequence completes. Older displays do this. For Toshiba, they may have a menu item to address this.
Surge Suppressor.
Anything with an electric motor in the same AC outlet, or an outlet on the same circuit, generates spikes. This can disturb the ballast in the TV. This causes a burst of additional current to the lamp.
Some have reported lamps failing as vacuum cleaners or window air-conditioning units are turned on! Your best bet is to get a surge suppressor. If you want protection against lightning, you need an AC Surge or Lightning Suppressor.
Losing Power.
Do not unplug or remove AC power to turn off your TV. Your set requires a typical 2 minute process to turn off so it can cool the lamp. Other electronics, like a cable box or satellite receiver, provide a switched AC outlet. Supposedly, you can “conveniently” turn the TV set off or on.
DO NOT USE IT!
If your electric utility company has problems with the power, get an uninterruptible power supply (UPS), the same as for your computer.
On the other hand, Toshiba claims this is unnecessary. Their sets do not need a cool down process. When the lamp is off, so is the fan.
Power Settings.
Generally, displays have two power levels for the lamp. For longer lamp life, set it to low power. However, this produces less light output. In nearly all cases, lamp-based rear projection sets are brighter than necessary. So, lower light output is not as bad as it appears and slightly improves black levels.
Dying Lamps.
With lamp age, light output drops. You will notice it doesn’t seem as bright as it was. To fix this, go in the menu and switch to high power. At this point, getting a replacement lamp is not a bad idea.
When To Replace.
As you continue to use the lamp, light output continues to drop. It will start to change color. You will see a yellowish overcast that is most evident on whites. When this happens, you need a new lamp.
Expect to lose 25% of light output in the first 500 hours of use. By the time you see yellow whites, you have used well past 75% of the lamp’s life. If you want a sharp, bright image, replace the lamp well before it gets to ths point.
Toshiba Exception.
Toshiba has a different view. They suggest ignoring the above. Toshiba recommends the high power setting, since they designed the lamp and calculated its life span for a high power setting.
This seems to go against logic. However, Toshiba claims it is based on experience from customers and electronics stores. They use the lamps all day long, in high power mode, with just one power cycle all day. In some cases, they are never turned off!
Toshiba found dealer demo displays can get 7000-8000 hours from a lamp. It is also claimed ordinary incandescent light bulbs get this kind of life when used with a dimmer. So, it’s something to keep in mind, regarding your lamp.
Popularity: 33%
High Heat Tolerance.
Tungsten has a very high boiling point. It is well above steel. While tungsten is still in solid form at very high temperatures, most other materials (copper, aluminum, glass) become liquid.
This high-tolerance for heat allows tungsten halogen lamps to work at extremely high temperatures. This high heat can cause serious physical injuries if you’re not careful. The high temperatures can also cause property damage.
Due to its delicate nature and high operating temperature, use tungsten halogen lamps ONLY with tungsten halogen-approved fixtures. These fixtures should fully enclose all parts of the tungsten halogen lamp. This is for protection in case the bulb bursts.
It’s high heat can cause tungsten halogen lamps to ignite paper, cloth, or other combustible materials. So, keep them away or else you could be creating a fire hazard.
Care & Handling.
Tungsten halogen lamps are very fragile. Do not drop them, crush, bend, or shake them.
Do not use your bare hands to touch the tungsten halogen bulb surface or inside reflectors. Skin oils can lead to breakage, shorten the life, or burst the lamp. Instead, use clean gloves whenever handling a tungsten halogen lamp. Lint-free cloth gloves work well for installation and removal, too!
Never touch a tungsten halogen lamp that is in use. Do not touch it after it has just been used. Tungsten is a HIGH-HEAT metal and will hold it even after it has been used. If you touch it, it will cause serious burns. So, you must give it time to cool down before handling it.
Tungsten halogen lamps are VERY bright. Do not look at it direclty for any period of time, when it is in use. It could cause serious eye injury.
Maintenance.
With alcohol and using a lint free cloth or tissue, clean any dirt, oil, or lint off the lamp. Foreign debris on the bulb surface can cause hot spots on the lamp. This may result in lamp failure.
Replacement.
Before inserting, removing, or cleaning the lamp, be sure it is not getting any electrical power.
Place the lamp securely in the socket. If you install it incorrectly, you may cause electrical arcing or overheating. This can shorten lamp life and damage the socket. When necessary, replace any lamp holders and sockets.
The tungsten halogen lamp seal must be under 350°C. The tungsten halogen lamp wall must be above 250°C and below 800°C.
Power Use.
Your tungsten halogen lamps should be attached to fixtures that meet the specified wattage and voltage of the bulb. Otherwise, you could shorten lamp life, cause it to break (or explode), or overheat the fixture causing a fire hazard.
Do not operate your lamp beyond the total rated voltage. Don’t use dimmers that could drive your lamp over the rated voltage.
When you use the lamp, do it only in the indicated burn position. Otherwise, it could cause overheating and shorten lamp life.
When required, use an external fuse.
Don’t directly expose one lamp with another. You risk overheating and can shorten the life of the bulb.
Popularity: 13%
My TV does not show anything when I press the power button. Why is it not working?
Common Problem.
What you may be experiencing is a problem with your lamp. The lamp is used to light the images that appear on your screen. If there is no light, namely no illumination from your lamp, the screen will be dark.
Like a light bulb, lamps burn out after a certain amount of use. Just like light bulbs, they can be replaced. The cost of these lamps vary by manufacturer and model. But, expect to pay around $300 or more.
Diagnosing Your Problem.
This may sound strange, but you may need to read the owners manual for your TV. It will (at least if the manual is any good) describe what each light, or series of lights, or light behavior mean for your set. This will help you determine if there is a problem, and help you to decide what to do next (or not to do).
For instance, a DLP HDTV may have two lights on the front panel. There is an ‘OFF’ light which is red. There is an ‘ON’ light that is green. After you turn the TV screen off, the green lights blinks. The owner’s manual tells you this means the fan is cooling the bulb. Do not turn the set on until the blinking green light is gone, if you want the bulb to cool down.
If both lights are on (red and green), with one of them blinking, the set may be re-setting itself. This may indicate a bad bulb or another problem.
What Is Happening In There?
The big drawback to DLPs are the lamps. While it makes for spectacular viewing, you have to understand that all bulbs have to be replaced. If you believe the bulb needs to be replaced, try this…
- Go to the main menu on your TV.
- Find the ‘picture’ quality option.
- Change your picture quality brighness or intensity to something less bright or vivid.
What you are trying to do is conserve bulb life by minimizing its use. Your projection bulb may last a while longer. This keeps it from running hot and wearing out faster.
Popularity: 19%