After 1.000 hours, there was a gradual, but noticeable drop in picture quality. Another 1,000 hours more, it pushed me to use the “Deep Field Imager” to ‘boost’ contrast/brightness and compensate for the drop in light output.

Lamps Not Bulbs.

The lamp for a DLP is a sophisticated, high pressure, mercury, vapor lamp. These lamps run at high temperatures for extended periods. Osram and Philips are the major OEM manufacturers of lamps. Both brands rate their lamps at 6,000 hours of life.

Lamp Assembly.

Below are pictures showing where the lamp assembly goes. Note the glass lens on the left hand side.

Mitsubishi DLP Lamp Replacement lamp assembly cavity

Mitsubishi DLP Lamp Replacement assembly

Mitsubishi DLP Lamp Replacement light engine

Open Assembly.

Do NOT touch any of the glass of the assembly with your fingers.
Wait for the assembly to cool, first!

Use fine cloth gloves or a couple of tissues folded in half to ‘handle’ the assembly by the threaded stud at the rear of the bell housing. Finger oils shorten lamp life.

Mitsubishi DLP Lamp Replacement assembly open

The assembly is held together by 3 plastic clips. Two on each side (above the screen in the photo) and the 3rd is opposite the handle. See the 4 mounting clips that secure the lamp to the housing.

The nut (tip of the bell housing) and the screw were not tight. The replacement lamp had another screw and nut, but no washer.

Mitsubishi DLP Lamp Replacement assembly mounting clips

New Lamp.

The design changed from the original Osram. For one, the thickness of the bell housing and the front flat piece of glass made securing the clips more difficult since they didn’t fit as before.

Mitsubishi DLP Lamp Replacement

Mitsubishi DLP Lamp Replacement

Mitsubishi DLP Lamp Replacement

I was somewhat surprised at the ‘haze’ that settled on the face of the glass ‘lens’ that covers the opening of the bell housing/reflector of the lamp assembly. Also, the design was changed from a ‘lens’ (with an interior curved surface) to a flat piece of glass.

Old vs. Replacement Lamp

This image shows not a reflection, but a ‘haze’ (right image), which forms on the surface of the outer ‘lens’. Other than a thicker piece of glass, the corners of the bell housing (reflector) were thicker also.

Mitsubishi DLP Lamp Replacement

Remove the Screen.

Some recommend removing the filter screen to the rear of the lamp housing. There was substantial dust buildup in there. The screen is a fine mesh, which traps most of the dust passing across the front glass faceplate. This is the only ‘forced’ air circulating around the lamp assembly. Those two large, screened openings only use convection currents. There is no fan pushing air through those. They were not dusty.
Note with the before shot, the very corner of the screen. It shows the dust buildup that covered the whole screen before it was cleaned.

Mitsubishi DLP Lamp Replacement dust screen

A closer look of the lamp mounted in the housing shows an ‘arch’ to the front of the reflector, on each side of the assembly. Air is forced across this area. It is in front of the actual ‘bulb’ in the assembly. This appears to be a mistake, or “factory design flaw”.

Mitsubishi DLP Lamp Replacement dust screen

General Questions.

Has anyone purchased a lamp from a 3rd party? If so, how was lamp quality?

TV manufacturers do not produce their own lamps. They design the housings for the lamps because the housings go in their TVs. The manufacturers get their lamps from two primary sources: Philips and Osram (A Seimens Co.). These are the lamps manufacturers use in their own TVs, so the quality is identical (assuming your 3rd party provider sells Philips or Osram lamps, because knock-offs are out there).

How difficult is it to swap lamps in the bulb housing?

Typically, changing lamps from the housing takes 10-20 minutes. Use your TV’s user manual to identify where the lamp is. From there, all it takes is a phillips-head screwdriver and some patience.

Once the panel is removed, for the lamp housing, you see the housing and the lamp inside the TV. There are usually 2-4 screws holding the lamp housing in place. After removing those screws, the lamp housing slides out of the TV.

Another 1-3 screws hold the lamp housing together. Remove them and the housing comes apart. This lets you access the lamp.

2-4 screws hold the lamp in place. Remove these and replace the old lamp with the new. Be careful to position the lamp where the old one was placed. Also be careful not to touch the lens of the new lamp with your bare hands. Body oil degrades the quality of the lens and the life of the lamp.

The light engine was fixed once. Does this affect my lamp choice?

No.

Will the use of an OEM lamp affect the 3 year light engine warranty at all?

It should not affect the warranty at all. These are the same OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) lamps that TV manufacturers use on the factory floor.

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Heavy Vibrations.

A DLP is sensitive when…

• kids jump up and down on the floor,
• there are heavy footsteps that vibrate the floor where the TV sits, and
• excessive volume comes from a home theater system subwoofer.

The above causes vibration to the display. If your display vibrates, so does your lamp. That COULD cause an instant failure.

Power On/Power Off.

Do not regularly turn your TV on and off. Lamps are arc-based. This means when you turn the power on, it “strikes” the lamp.

This is THE most destructive process to your lamp. It is one of the biggest causes of shortened lamp life. Limit this to 2-3 times a day, at most. Instead of turning the TV off for a few hours, just leave it on. This is also true for old CRT technology.

Give It Air.

Watch out for enclosed settings/rooms without good ventilation. Air movement is key to the transfer of outgoing warm air with incoming cool air.

A Clean Filter.

Not all DLPs have filters. For those that do, the owner’s manual has instructions on how to replace it. This is important, if you want to make your lamp last longer. It keeps the light path cool and at peak efficiency. With LCD projection, it stops debris from getting into the light path, which degrades image performance.

Turn It Off.

Most sets have a 10-60 second delay when starting a power down sequence. This is to prevent unnecessary lamp striking in the case of unintented power down commands.

For Toshiba, they have an “Instant Startup” menu item. Using it is easy. While the set is on, press the power button. In 10 seconds, press the power button again. In just a few moments, the picture returns (at least it should). If it takes a minute or longer, or the power on is being ignored, it means the lamp was turned off. It will not turn on again until the sequence completes. Older displays do this. For Toshiba, they may have a menu item to address this.

Surge Suppressor.

Anything with an electric motor in the same AC outlet, or an outlet on the same circuit, generates spikes. This can disturb the ballast in the TV. This causes a burst of additional current to the lamp.

Some have reported lamps failing as vacuum cleaners or window air-conditioning units are turned on! Your best bet is to get a surge suppressor. If you want protection against lightning, you need an AC Surge or Lightning Suppressor.

Losing Power.

Do not unplug or remove AC power to turn off your TV. Your set requires a typical 2 minute process to turn off so it can cool the lamp. Other electronics, like a cable box or satellite receiver, provide a switched AC outlet. Supposedly, you can “conveniently” turn the TV set off or on.

DO NOT USE IT!

If your electric utility company has problems with the power, get an uninterruptible power supply (UPS), the same as for your computer.

On the other hand, Toshiba claims this is unnecessary. Their sets do not need a cool down process. When the lamp is off, so is the fan.

Power Settings.

Generally, displays have two power levels for the lamp. For longer lamp life, set it to low power. However, this produces less light output. In nearly all cases, lamp-based rear projection sets are brighter than necessary. So, lower light output is not as bad as it appears and slightly improves black levels.

Dying Lamps.

With lamp age, light output drops. You will notice it doesn’t seem as bright as it was. To fix this, go in the menu and switch to high power. At this point, getting a replacement lamp is not a bad idea.

When To Replace.

As you continue to use the lamp, light output continues to drop. It will start to change color. You will see a yellowish overcast that is most evident on whites. When this happens, you need a new lamp.

Expect to lose 25% of light output in the first 500 hours of use. By the time you see yellow whites, you have used well past 75% of the lamp’s life. If you want a sharp, bright image, replace the lamp well before it gets to ths point.

Toshiba Exception.

Toshiba has a different view. They suggest ignoring the above. Toshiba recommends the high power setting, since they designed the lamp and calculated its life span for a high power setting.

This seems to go against logic. However, Toshiba claims it is based on experience from customers and electronics stores. They use the lamps all day long, in high power mode, with just one power cycle all day. In some cases, they are never turned off!

Toshiba found dealer demo displays can get 7000-8000 hours from a lamp. It is also claimed ordinary incandescent light bulbs get this kind of life when used with a dimmer. So, it’s something to keep in mind, regarding your lamp.

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toshiba OEM 75007110T rear projection tv lamp

for this DLP TV…

Toshiba 50HM66 dlp hdtv

Check for…

Toshiba 50HM66
Toshiba 50HM67
Toshiba 50HMX96
Toshiba 56HM16
Toshiba 56HM66
Toshiba 56HMX96
Toshiba 57HM167
Toshiba 65HM117
Toshiba 65HM167

A typical DLP rear-projection TV replacement lamp will come with a 90-day warranty.

The problem is that 90% of failures occur during the first 180-days. I can’t recommend an extended-warranty either way. Just be aware of the history of these lamps.

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Reputable vs. Ripoff

When you buy a generic lamp online, be aware that just because they say its “OEM” or “Genuine Original” does not make it so. Without a reputation or recommendation, an online merchant can say anything. If they get too many complaints, they just set up another website and do it all over again.

There are some tips to give you the confidence to get the right replacement projection lamp (bulb). Just being aware of the dynamics of the marketplace, you can improve your chances of getting just what you need!

What You Should Know.

Just because a lamp has a brand name on it does not make it an original part for your TV. Your TV lamp had an ORIGINAL lamp supplier that worked with your TV manufacturer. The engineers from both companies worked together to create the picture quality and the lamp to go with it. So, how does this affect what lamp to get?

The Samsung/Philips Example.

Take a Samsung DLP TV with a specific model number. The original lamp had its own part number. When you get this part directly from Samsung, you get the lamp AND the plastic case (or enclosure, or assembly, or housing)

Let’s say the lamp was manufactured by Philips. Yet, this original TV lamp ships from Samsung’s factory in Korea. The replacement part has a different serial number and is made by Philips. It ships from the Samsung Parts Factory in California. This lamp may have a different price and may not include the plastic case.

What a disreputable retailer will do is sell the replacement part at a much reduced price (since it is aftermarket and lacks the enclosure). Yet, they tell you it is an OEM part. It is a recipe for a dissatisfied customer.

Cutting Corners.

Competition in the lamp business is fierce. Given the popularity of projection lamp TVs and DLPs, many see the potential profits of replacement lamps. Often, people who blow a lamp are usually in a hurry to get their TV working again. This creates a breeding ground for unscrupulous types who will take advantage of their rush.

Instead of paying full price for an OEM part, nothing stops some 3rd party lamp manufacturer from stamping the name “Philips” on their lamps. They can sell them at Phillips prices but with their low-quality costs. Philips can’t stop everyone and some countries seem to encourage counterfeiting. So, you have to be careful!

Pirate Heaven.

eBay has a lot of counterfeit items. It is a haven for fly-by-night sellers. Just opened and unknown ecommerce stores (no search engine results for them) are risky too!

Questionable retailers make claims to ship you original parts at discount prices. They’ll say it is over $100 less than the manufacturer! For a part with a retail price under $300, something is strange when an e-tailers says this. You don’t want to take a chance on something as important as your projection lamp.

The Counterfeits.

Watch out for cheap, generic lamps. A handful of factories are producing lots of these low-quality lamps. As more fall victim to their low-quality parts, the profits attract more of these factories to produce these subpar lamps.

OEM – Know What It Means.

An OEM lamp for one Mitsubishi DLP model will not be OEM for another Mitsubishi DLP model. Some vendors claim a lamp is OEM for your DLP TV when it may not be for your model.

Lamp Technology.

Why be wary of 3rd-party and counterfeit projection lamps?

Rear Projection TV’s (RPTVs) were manufactured by a joint effort between many companies. Texas Instruments (TI) was key in creating DLP and the DLP chip. Philips developed the UHP lamp technology that is in wide use today.

In addition to TI and Philips, the other OEM product manufacturers include Samsung, Sony, Toshiba, Panasonic, and Mitsubishi. They collaborated to create RPTV and Front Projection (FT) projectors.

The 3rd party lamp manufacturer that claims to make OEM lamps is committing fraud.

3rd Party Parts Are A Gamble.

Often, 3rd-party projection lamps VOID your warranty. It may lead to premature failure of other TV components. Your DLP is “driven” or powered by a “lamp driver” or a “ballast.” The ballast is engineered as the bridge between the TV manufacturer (Panasonic for example) and the lamp manufacturer (let’s say Philips). For proper ignition, continuous voltage, and a maximum life, the ballast and lamp are matched together.

A generic or 3rd-party lamp may save you $5, $10, or $15. But, what about your TV. Is it worth the risk?

A Solid Buying Plan.

Buy from reputable, recommended, AUTHORIZED dealers.
Find out how long the company has been in business.
Do a search on the company name.
Compare competitor prices (you want to see if its too low or too high).

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Tungsten has a very high boiling point. It is well above steel. While tungsten is still in solid form at very high temperatures, most other materials (copper, aluminum, glass) become liquid.

This high-tolerance for heat allows tungsten halogen lamps to work at extremely high temperatures. This high heat can cause serious physical injuries if you’re not careful. The high temperatures can also cause property damage.

Due to its delicate nature and high operating temperature, use tungsten halogen lamps ONLY with tungsten halogen-approved fixtures. These fixtures should fully enclose all parts of the tungsten halogen lamp. This is for protection in case the bulb bursts.

It’s high heat can cause tungsten halogen lamps to ignite paper, cloth, or other combustible materials. So, keep them away or else you could be creating a fire hazard.

Care & Handling.

Tungsten halogen lamps are very fragile. Do not drop them, crush, bend, or shake them.

Do not use your bare hands to touch the tungsten halogen bulb surface or inside reflectors. Skin oils can lead to breakage, shorten the life, or burst the lamp. Instead, use clean gloves whenever handling a tungsten halogen lamp. Lint-free cloth gloves work well for installation and removal, too!

Never touch a tungsten halogen lamp that is in use. Do not touch it after it has just been used. Tungsten is a HIGH-HEAT metal and will hold it even after it has been used. If you touch it, it will cause serious burns. So, you must give it time to cool down before handling it.

Tungsten halogen lamps are VERY bright. Do not look at it direclty for any period of time, when it is in use. It could cause serious eye injury.

Maintenance.

With alcohol and using a lint free cloth or tissue, clean any dirt, oil, or lint off the lamp. Foreign debris on the bulb surface can cause hot spots on the lamp. This may result in lamp failure.

Replacement.

Before inserting, removing, or cleaning the lamp, be sure it is not getting any electrical power.

Place the lamp securely in the socket. If you install it incorrectly, you may cause electrical arcing or overheating. This can shorten lamp life and damage the socket. When necessary, replace any lamp holders and sockets.

The tungsten halogen lamp seal must be under 350°C. The tungsten halogen lamp wall must be above 250°C and below 800°C.

Power Use.

Your tungsten halogen lamps should be attached to fixtures that meet the specified wattage and voltage of the bulb. Otherwise, you could shorten lamp life, cause it to break (or explode), or overheat the fixture causing a fire hazard.

Do not operate your lamp beyond the total rated voltage. Don’t use dimmers that could drive your lamp over the rated voltage.

When you use the lamp, do it only in the indicated burn position. Otherwise, it could cause overheating and shorten lamp life.

When required, use an external fuse.

Don’t directly expose one lamp with another. You risk overheating and can shorten the life of the bulb.

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Cost.

Projection lamp prices range form the low-end to the very high-end. For low illumination projection TVs, expect to see them at around $200. High-illumination projection TVs will use projection lamps that cost over $600. For your average projection lamp, expect to see about $350.

Scarcity.

Projecion lamps produce amazing brightness, compared to other HDTV technologies. Their assembly is complicated with supply being limited. In some cases, a projection bulb may not be available for several months!

Just In Case.

Given the cost, scarcity, and importance of the projection lamp, it is worth considering buying a backup bulb immediately after purchasing your projection lamp TV. A spare helps you diagnose problems faster by eliminating it as a cause. It leaves you less vulnerable to supply disruptions if your current bulb stops working. Plus, you may be able to get a discount by buying the TV and extra bulb together.

Lamp Life.

Before 2000, projection lamp bulbs would give you about 1000 hours. Newer lamps double that, to 2000 hours. More expensive ones last 4000 hours, while a few can last 6000 hours.

Short-Term Price vs. Long-Term Cost

It is important to find out what kind of lamp you have or are thinking about getting. The lamp life may make the difference between getting a cheaper model with fewer hours and a more expensive one that lasts much longer.

Rating.

Look for different ratings in the specifications for your projection lamp. There is a life expectancy for normal use and one for economy-mode. Using less brightness from the bulb can add many hours to its life.

More brightness = Less bulb life

Warranty.

The warranty varies by manufacturer. You will need to look at the users’ manual or go to their website and find the warranty information. A projection lamp warranty of 60 or 90 days after purchase is typical.

Climate.

Extreme cold in the wintertime is bad for a projection lamp. Suppose you store your backup projection lamp in an area that is 40 degrees or below. If you then use it in your TV that is room temperature (65 degress), it could EXPLODE! Give your projection lamp time to warm to room temperature before using it. You don’t want to have to buy another lamp!

Shaking.

A shake, jostle, bump or sudden movements are not good for any projection lamp bulb. This is especially so when the lamp projection bulb is in use! The electronics are sensitive to these movements.

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sony xl 2400 replacement lamp

Grand WEGA 3LCD Rear Projection HDTV Lamp

The replacement lamp is the Sony XL-2400.

Finally, the lamp burned out. I was concerned about changing the lamp, since it was all new to me. While computers are no problem for me, HD televisions are new territory. After reading the manual for the TV, I figured out how to get the lamp in and out in only a few minutes.

Removing a Lamp.

What you do is pop open one panel. Turn a lever, then pull out another panel. Grab the lamp by hook/finger handle. Gently pull the lamp up and out.

Inserting a Lamp.

Don’t do this with your replacement lamp. First, practice with your old lamp. If you damage it further, who cares? At least you won’t break the new one!

Push the lamp in until it pops into place. Be sure to replace the inner panel properly (it has the lever. If it is not done properly, the TV won’t turn on. Pop, the outer panel back on and you’re done. Was that so hard?

My Results.

My replacement lamp has been in for a few months. The image quality (especially brightness) is as good as ever. It’s certainly as good as the old lamp was.

For a WEGA, if it goes black, and this lamp fits your TV, get it. A bright TV in a dark room is a great experience. After using this replacement lamp for months (and leaving the TV on all the time, including when no one is home), I feel very comfortable recommending it.

A Few Last Things.

When you get your replacement lamp, it should include gloves. Use them. This is because the oil from your bare hands can cause the bulb to explode.

When you look at pictures on the web of the replacement lamp, keep this in mind. Often, it shows both the case AND the bulb. When you buy one, you only get the bulb.

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