After 1.000 hours, there was a gradual, but noticeable drop in picture quality. Another 1,000 hours more, it pushed me to use the “Deep Field Imager” to ‘boost’ contrast/brightness and compensate for the drop in light output.

Lamps Not Bulbs.

The lamp for a DLP is a sophisticated, high pressure, mercury, vapor lamp. These lamps run at high temperatures for extended periods. Osram and Philips are the major OEM manufacturers of lamps. Both brands rate their lamps at 6,000 hours of life.

Lamp Assembly.

Below are pictures showing where the lamp assembly goes. Note the glass lens on the left hand side.

Mitsubishi DLP Lamp Replacement lamp assembly cavity

Mitsubishi DLP Lamp Replacement assembly

Mitsubishi DLP Lamp Replacement light engine

Open Assembly.

Do NOT touch any of the glass of the assembly with your fingers.
Wait for the assembly to cool, first!

Use fine cloth gloves or a couple of tissues folded in half to ‘handle’ the assembly by the threaded stud at the rear of the bell housing. Finger oils shorten lamp life.

Mitsubishi DLP Lamp Replacement assembly open

The assembly is held together by 3 plastic clips. Two on each side (above the screen in the photo) and the 3rd is opposite the handle. See the 4 mounting clips that secure the lamp to the housing.

The nut (tip of the bell housing) and the screw were not tight. The replacement lamp had another screw and nut, but no washer.

Mitsubishi DLP Lamp Replacement assembly mounting clips

New Lamp.

The design changed from the original Osram. For one, the thickness of the bell housing and the front flat piece of glass made securing the clips more difficult since they didn’t fit as before.

Mitsubishi DLP Lamp Replacement

Mitsubishi DLP Lamp Replacement

Mitsubishi DLP Lamp Replacement

I was somewhat surprised at the ‘haze’ that settled on the face of the glass ‘lens’ that covers the opening of the bell housing/reflector of the lamp assembly. Also, the design was changed from a ‘lens’ (with an interior curved surface) to a flat piece of glass.

Old vs. Replacement Lamp

This image shows not a reflection, but a ‘haze’ (right image), which forms on the surface of the outer ‘lens’. Other than a thicker piece of glass, the corners of the bell housing (reflector) were thicker also.

Mitsubishi DLP Lamp Replacement

Remove the Screen.

Some recommend removing the filter screen to the rear of the lamp housing. There was substantial dust buildup in there. The screen is a fine mesh, which traps most of the dust passing across the front glass faceplate. This is the only ‘forced’ air circulating around the lamp assembly. Those two large, screened openings only use convection currents. There is no fan pushing air through those. They were not dusty.
Note with the before shot, the very corner of the screen. It shows the dust buildup that covered the whole screen before it was cleaned.

Mitsubishi DLP Lamp Replacement dust screen

A closer look of the lamp mounted in the housing shows an ‘arch’ to the front of the reflector, on each side of the assembly. Air is forced across this area. It is in front of the actual ‘bulb’ in the assembly. This appears to be a mistake, or “factory design flaw”.

Mitsubishi DLP Lamp Replacement dust screen

General Questions.

Has anyone purchased a lamp from a 3rd party? If so, how was lamp quality?

TV manufacturers do not produce their own lamps. They design the housings for the lamps because the housings go in their TVs. The manufacturers get their lamps from two primary sources: Philips and Osram (A Seimens Co.). These are the lamps manufacturers use in their own TVs, so the quality is identical (assuming your 3rd party provider sells Philips or Osram lamps, because knock-offs are out there).

How difficult is it to swap lamps in the bulb housing?

Typically, changing lamps from the housing takes 10-20 minutes. Use your TV’s user manual to identify where the lamp is. From there, all it takes is a phillips-head screwdriver and some patience.

Once the panel is removed, for the lamp housing, you see the housing and the lamp inside the TV. There are usually 2-4 screws holding the lamp housing in place. After removing those screws, the lamp housing slides out of the TV.

Another 1-3 screws hold the lamp housing together. Remove them and the housing comes apart. This lets you access the lamp.

2-4 screws hold the lamp in place. Remove these and replace the old lamp with the new. Be careful to position the lamp where the old one was placed. Also be careful not to touch the lens of the new lamp with your bare hands. Body oil degrades the quality of the lens and the life of the lamp.

The light engine was fixed once. Does this affect my lamp choice?

No.

Will the use of an OEM lamp affect the 3 year light engine warranty at all?

It should not affect the warranty at all. These are the same OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) lamps that TV manufacturers use on the factory floor.

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Samsung HLT6187SAX 61-Inch Slim LED Engine 1080p DLP HDTV

No need for a lamp ‘bulb’ with the LED, unlike other DLP, LCDs, SXRD/LCoS, etc projection TVs. AND… no ‘spinning’ color wheel, which you hear in some units.

This LED is rated to last about twenty years. No need to wait for a service technician to replace a bulb…while you have no TV.

Samsung LED HLT shows an the image in 4 seconds, while it is not uncommon for others to take over 30 seconds.

You get deep blacks. Compared to other projection TVs, colors are more vibrant.

Samsung HLT6187SAX 61-Inch Slim LED Engine 1080p DLP HDTV screen

The cabinet is sleek with a small surrounding frame (less than one inch border).

The audio/sound is not great. A home theatre system is needed to get surround sound.

Other makes place the inputs/output in the back center. This can make it difficult to get to the plugs during installation or to make changes later. Samsung puts the rear inputs/outputs on the right side. Yet, it still allows plugs/cables to be concealed while viewing, instead of them coming out the side. The power cord itself is on the back-right (and removable). If you use a cabinet, the power cord does not get in the way.

Samsung HLT6187SAX 61-Inch Slim LED Engine 1080p DLP HDTV chicken little movies

Some complain that changing/flipping channels. Not a problem with this Samsung. Channels show immediately.

No ‘screen door’ effect nor ‘image trailer blurs’ of a LCD. No burn-ins and it is not an energy drain like a Plasma. This Samsung has a fast start-up compared to a LCoS system. The screen has a wide viewing angle.

This Samsung LED has a great contrast. Be sure to customize the picture to your particular tastes.

Samsung HLT6187SAX 61-Inch Slim LED Engine 1080p DLP HDTV HTPC home theater setup

My Home Theater Setup.

1 Cerwin Wega CLSC-6 Center speaker
2 Hole punch to direct center speaker sound slightly upwards.
3 JVC 7-DVD changer
4 Something called a “VCR” (just using it to prop up the shelf for item [3]).
5 HTPC:
* ThermalTake Bach with iMon VFD
* Seasonic 500 W power supply
* 500 GB + 320 GB drive with Win XP. Drives are mostly empty. NAS devices hold all my media.
* ASROCK SATA2 939-Dual
* Opteron 180 (2.4 GHz x2) S939 CPU
* 4×512 MB OCZ Gold DDR-800
* eVGA 8800GT
* LG combo BluRay/HD-DVD/DVD-RW drive
6 Sony STR-DE-995
7 Philips 5982 1080p Upconverting DVD/DivX player
8 Samsung 61″ HL-T6187S LED DLP connected to HTPC via DVI-HDMI
9 Harmony 880 recharging cradle
10 Apple iPod Universal Dock (Harmony 880)

Mitsubishi WD-60638 60-Inch 1080p 3D-Ready DLP HDTV rear panel back

Comparisons.

The Sony A2000/A2020 have motion blur. The Mitsubishi reviews rated the Samsungs higher for color accuracy (Mitsubishi’s 6-color light system is no good if the colors are off) among a host of other things.

This Samsung does 1080p over component video on an Xbox 360!

On screen menus are good.

Colors are bright and vivid.

The cabinet is a little flimsy. It is easy to shift the cabinet and “bend” the screen.

This was chosen over the Samsung 6189S because of the HDMI 1.3 spec, which appears 5 years away from ANYthing being ready for it, and maybe 10 years for HD. By then, HDMI will probably be irrelevant anyway.

Samsung HLT6187SAX 61-Inch Slim LED Engine 1080p DLP HDTV jriver media center

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Samsung 42 inch 720p DLP spots fix dmd Digital Micro-Mirror Device

 DMD (Digital Micro-Mirror Device) or DLP (Digital Light Processor) chip is failing. The DMD is has hundreds of thousands of tiny movable mirrors. Each white spot is a stuck mirror. Each mirror is a pixel. Sometimes a stuck mirror shows as a black speck.

Samsung has extend coverage for this problem on some models.

Samsung 42 inch 720p DLP spots fix dmd Digital Micro-Mirror Device

Samsung 42 inch 720p DLP spots fix dmd Digital Micro-Mirror Device

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Identifying the Problem.

When it blew, the color wheel did not make a pop/bang/knock. Instead, the left side of the image got wavy. Next came what sounded like the turbofan of a jet engine. After powering the TV off the sound continued but eventually stopped. 

Since the spinning/whining/grinding sound on the color wheel is so loud, I decided not to turn the TV back on. My next step was getting a replacement color wheel, part #BP96-01103A! 

This repair guide is only for my Samsung and may differ from other R**68W models. However, they should be similar. The service manual is not necessary for this repair; in fact, many think the manual is useless for this process. 

Samsung HL-R6168W Color Wheel Repair Tools.

• Phillips screwdrivers (magnetized tips are best); a powered screwdriver makes this a faster repair 
• Jewelers screwdriver (one of those small ones for eyeglasses, etc)
• Flashlight
• Vacuum/Swiffer dust cloth/compressed air for dust

For these repair instructions, orientation is behind the TV where you’ll be sitting, so “left” means towards the AV inputs, and “right” means closer to the lamp. 

Samsung HL-R6168W Color Wheel Repair Steps.

1. Unplug the power and any cables. Tip: Label each cable with tape to make reattaching easier.
2. Remove the back panel. There is a small panel inset into the large back panel which spans the width of the TV. It is for lamp replacement. No need to remove it since it comes out with the back panel. There are 14 screws to remove. Once removed, you can pull the back panel straight out (no need to tilt it).


Samsung HL R6168W color wheel replacement

 

3. You see three major components. The middle one with the fan attached is what you want, with the light engine (LE). To the left is the AV input unit. To the right is the lamp (no need to remove it for this procedure).


Samsung HL R6168W color wheel replacement

 

4. Pull the LE straight out. 4 screws need to be removed. 2 are on a shiny bracket to the right. The one in the middle of the second photo was fairly tight in my set.


Samsung HL R6168W color wheel replacement

 



Samsung HL R6168W color wheel replacement

 

5. There is a connector with a arrow on it. It attaches on the other end in the AV input unit to the left. No need to detach this. If you do, you can pull the entire LE out. I left it on. If careful, you can still get the LE out enough to easily make the replacement.


Samsung HL R6168W color wheel replacement

 

6. This connector is to the right. It needs to be disconnected.


Samsung HL R6168W color wheel replacement

 

7. The DVI cable attached to the AV unit needs to be disconnected. Leave the end connected to the LE on.


Samsung HL R6168W color wheel replacement

 

8. There is cabling on the top and right side of the LE. It needs to be pulled out of the routing clips so there is room to pull out the LE.


Samsung HL R6168W color wheel replacement

 



Samsung HL R6168W color wheel replacement

 

9. Now pull the LE straight out. It rests between two metal rails. See the picture below for a warning.


Samsung HL R6168W color wheel replacement

 

10. You are looking at the DLP lens assembly. In front is an angled plastic shield. Be careful not to bend it when pulling the LE out. To the right of the lens is a black plastic shield. For my TV, there was a label indicating it contained the color wheel. Two small brass screws hold it in place. Remove these and keep them separate. The color wheel is held in by other brass screws that are different.


Samsung HL R6168W color wheel replacement

 

11. This is the color wheel underneath the shield. Two more brass screws to be remove, marked by arrows.


Samsung HL R6168W color wheel replacement

 

12. Before removing the color wheel, disconnect two connectors. The first is a copper ribbon. Just pull it out. The second is a gray-gray-blue wired connector. It is possibly the most difficult step of this process. Pry it out with a jewelers screwdriver or tweezers or whatever you have on hand. DO NOT pull directly on the wires. It could break! That would leave the connector stuck.


Samsung HL-R6168W color wheel replacement

 

13. Pull the color wheel vertically out. Be careful with the rubber surround on the right of the color wheel. You need to reuse part of it. Part can be thrown away, as your new color wheel should have some rubber (the black strip in the middle of the unit on the right below). From the photo, one section of the color “pie” did indeed shatter.


Samsung HL R6168W color wheel replacement

 

14. This is the wheel well. Inside you may find tiny bits of colored glass. Try to get it all out with one of those tiny vacuums, a piece of Swiffer, or perhaps some tape attached to a pen.


Samsung HL R6168W color wheel replacement

 

15. This is the wheel well shot from the left to the right. The blue arrows show the rubber surround that should be left. The yellow arrow points at some more rubber with two holes: One is for one of the brass screws, the other is for a pin that is in the color wheel unit. There is a similar setup on the other side of the well. Your unit may not have this hole. One person drilled out the pin that was in his new color wheel. I did not have this problem.


Samsung HL R6168W color wheel replacement

 

16. The second most difficult step is getting the color wheel back in. The well is a tight fit. I was afraid of scraping the color wheel. The easiest way was peering into the well from the front, rather than from the top. From the front, there is a crack that lets you see how the wheel lines up with the rubber surround on the right side of the well. By the way, if you want to avoid finger oils on the wheel, try disposable gloves to do this step; I did not find it necessary.
17. All done! Put all the screws back in, plug the two connectors back, and reroute the cables back into the clips. Don’t turn on the TV until the back panel is firmly in as the TV won’t stay on if the lens unit cover is not firmly in (as a safety feature).
18. You may need to adjust the index delay, if you see strange color banding in any scenes that have colors close, but not quite the same, in tone. Usually, it is most obvious in face skin tones (i.e. “clay faces”). If you adjust index delay, turn off the set, wait for the lamp to cool down, then hit mute-1-8-2-power in succession. The set should turn on with the service menu appearing eventually on the left. I don’t remember the submenu “index delay” is under, but find it and usually it will need to be lowered. For me, it started in the mid-50’s and had to be lowered to 47. These numbers are different for each Samsung model, so adjust until the picture is pleasing to your eye. By the way, the supposed “correct” way to do this is to make the reddish part of the test color bar appear the “most saturated”, if you have a color calibration device.

Samsung HL-R6168W Epilogue.

My new color wheel works great and is A LOT quieter than the old one. And that  was nearly as loud as my Xbox 360’s fans. On the downside, I immediately noticed that dreaded shadow problem, with a 1-1.5 inch shadow on the left and a 0.25 inch shadow on the right. I don’t know if messing with the light engine caused the problem, but others have also reported having the shadow problem after having the color wheel changed (even by a service technician). 

I was very careful with the light engine and did not bump it much. I called the support number and they agreed to cover the repair if it did indeed turn out to be a “light tunnel” problem. Of course, there was no way I was going to tell them I replaced the color wheel myself. It took a couple more weeks, but now the set is back to looking new!

For a lamp replacement, try Samsung HL-R6168W HLR6168W Lamp with Housing BP96-01073A
.

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Samsung HL50A650 50-Inch 1080p Slim DLP HDTV

Let me start by saying you do not want to wall-mount this TV! This TV is meant for a stand or a table.

Watching “LOST” on this in HD is absolutely beautiful. This Samsung is made for shows like that. It also works well with standard definition TV shows (i.e. non-HD). However, this TV was meant for HD.

With my Comcast digital receiver, HD ranges from “a little better than standard definition” to “stunningly beautiful” which depends on the show you are watching. There have been more than a few “Wow!” moments, from HDTV programming and DVDs. The DVD player is a Samsung DVD-1080P8. It up-converts 1080p.

Watching the Transformers movie and the original Star Wars Trilogy (2004 DVD release) have been great.

Picture.

Contrast is very good, including for a bright room. Full brightness takes a few moments to reach full capacity.

My Home Theater System.

Besides the Samsung DLP…

• HDMI 2 meters
  (6 Feet) Super High Resolution Cable.

All TV goes through this on my DLP. This cable is very affordable from Amazon!

• Samsung DVD-1080P8 1080p DVD Player which up-converts.
• Comcast HD with coaxial cable from wall to box.
• Prepac
  BPS-6000 stand.

Don’t Forget.

You need an HD cable / satellite receiver to get HD. Just because you have a Cable/Satellite receiver doesn’t mean it is HD-ready. You may have to pay a little more, but it’s worth it if you want to see in high-definition.

CALL your cable/satellite provider to activate HD once you have your HD receiver. Just because your subscription is active doesn’t mean the new box shows HD!

To activate HD on your receiver may take AT LEAST an hour. So, be sure to call and get it activated with enough time before the show you want to watch.

Recommendations.

Get a TV stand at least 20 inches high. Many don’t like to watch their HDTV with their head looking too far downward. A good high stand gives you more of a “movie theater” experience with optimal viewing when standing.

TV Stand.

The Prepac BPS-6000 is 26 inches, which works great for this Samsung!

Remote.

When you first get started, the “Source” button is useful. The E-mode button works well. The P-size button slightly “stretches” non-HD 4:3 programming to fit a 16:9 screen. It does this for standard 2.35:1 movie programming, too. It removes the letterbox and stretches the picture.

Try this option to see if you like it. If you do use it, remember to reset to the 16:9 setting for HD programming!

Issues.

In a completely dark room, the light from the back of the TV is sometimes noticeable. Usually, what’s on the TV keeps you from noticing it, though.

In very dark rooms, sometimes the picture is too bright. This is at the default setting. After you change the “E-mode” and some other settings, this is not a problem.

Compared to LCD.

After some testing and research, the picture is comparable to the Samsung series 6 LCD and the Sony XBR4.


Samsung HL50A650 50-Inch 1080p Slim DLP HDTV


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Reputable vs. Ripoff

When you buy a generic lamp online, be aware that just because they say its “OEM” or “Genuine Original” does not make it so. Without a reputation or recommendation, an online merchant can say anything. If they get too many complaints, they just set up another website and do it all over again.

There are some tips to give you the confidence to get the right replacement projection lamp (bulb). Just being aware of the dynamics of the marketplace, you can improve your chances of getting just what you need!

What You Should Know.

Just because a lamp has a brand name on it does not make it an original part for your TV. Your TV lamp had an ORIGINAL lamp supplier that worked with your TV manufacturer. The engineers from both companies worked together to create the picture quality and the lamp to go with it. So, how does this affect what lamp to get?

The Samsung/Philips Example.

Take a Samsung DLP TV with a specific model number. The original lamp had its own part number. When you get this part directly from Samsung, you get the lamp AND the plastic case (or enclosure, or assembly, or housing)

Let’s say the lamp was manufactured by Philips. Yet, this original TV lamp ships from Samsung’s factory in Korea. The replacement part has a different serial number and is made by Philips. It ships from the Samsung Parts Factory in California. This lamp may have a different price and may not include the plastic case.

What a disreputable retailer will do is sell the replacement part at a much reduced price (since it is aftermarket and lacks the enclosure). Yet, they tell you it is an OEM part. It is a recipe for a dissatisfied customer.

Cutting Corners.

Competition in the lamp business is fierce. Given the popularity of projection lamp TVs and DLPs, many see the potential profits of replacement lamps. Often, people who blow a lamp are usually in a hurry to get their TV working again. This creates a breeding ground for unscrupulous types who will take advantage of their rush.

Instead of paying full price for an OEM part, nothing stops some 3rd party lamp manufacturer from stamping the name “Philips” on their lamps. They can sell them at Phillips prices but with their low-quality costs. Philips can’t stop everyone and some countries seem to encourage counterfeiting. So, you have to be careful!

Pirate Heaven.

eBay has a lot of counterfeit items. It is a haven for fly-by-night sellers. Just opened and unknown ecommerce stores (no search engine results for them) are risky too!

Questionable retailers make claims to ship you original parts at discount prices. They’ll say it is over $100 less than the manufacturer! For a part with a retail price under $300, something is strange when an e-tailers says this. You don’t want to take a chance on something as important as your projection lamp.

The Counterfeits.

Watch out for cheap, generic lamps. A handful of factories are producing lots of these low-quality lamps. As more fall victim to their low-quality parts, the profits attract more of these factories to produce these subpar lamps.

OEM – Know What It Means.

An OEM lamp for one Mitsubishi DLP model will not be OEM for another Mitsubishi DLP model. Some vendors claim a lamp is OEM for your DLP TV when it may not be for your model.

Lamp Technology.

Why be wary of 3rd-party and counterfeit projection lamps?

Rear Projection TV’s (RPTVs) were manufactured by a joint effort between many companies. Texas Instruments (TI) was key in creating DLP and the DLP chip. Philips developed the UHP lamp technology that is in wide use today.

In addition to TI and Philips, the other OEM product manufacturers include Samsung, Sony, Toshiba, Panasonic, and Mitsubishi. They collaborated to create RPTV and Front Projection (FT) projectors.

The 3rd party lamp manufacturer that claims to make OEM lamps is committing fraud.

3rd Party Parts Are A Gamble.

Often, 3rd-party projection lamps VOID your warranty. It may lead to premature failure of other TV components. Your DLP is “driven” or powered by a “lamp driver” or a “ballast.” The ballast is engineered as the bridge between the TV manufacturer (Panasonic for example) and the lamp manufacturer (let’s say Philips). For proper ignition, continuous voltage, and a maximum life, the ballast and lamp are matched together.

A generic or 3rd-party lamp may save you $5, $10, or $15. But, what about your TV. Is it worth the risk?

A Solid Buying Plan.

Buy from reputable, recommended, AUTHORIZED dealers.
Find out how long the company has been in business.
Do a search on the company name.
Compare competitor prices (you want to see if its too low or too high).

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Samsung HL-P4663W 46 in. HDTV DLP TV

Findng the Right TV.

After doing a lot of research (probably too much), I came to the conclusion that a DLP set would be the best purchase. For those who have experienced problems with this set, I bet 90% were made before November 2004. Before then, these sets had numerous problems with its color wheel and bulb. I requested they ship me a version made either on or after November 2004. The date on my TV was November 2004.

My impressions.

The picture quality is amazing! After 39 months, no noticeable deterioration in the quality has happened. Brightness of the picture is still great, though it does seem a little dark during the day. However, I am a freak about brightness so maybe it’s just my bias showing.

The DVD quality is fantastic but I had to play with the DVD settings to remove the “grain” from the picture. Maybe it’s a result of my decision to use a Panasonic DVD player. At any rate, DVD movies look great now.

The Drawbacks.

There have been a few minor problems. While rare, my screen will freeze. It has happened much less frequently in the past year. Maybe the problem was with my cable TV company. The sound, while not horrible, is not good. So, I use my surround sound system. Yet, it does not seem to work well with HDTV channels. Though it is fantastic with DVD’s.

The reception on some analog channels is still disappointing. Though, it is an improvement from 3 years ago. The difference is significant. Again, maybe it is my cable company. With so many HD channel options, I rarely watch analog channels anymore so that issue is not a big deal to me.

The Final Analysis.

Overall, this Samsung has been a great TV.

One tip – The Dynamic brightness setting is ok for a sports event. However, don’t forget to reset it to the standard setting. Some, familiar with HDTV’s, say to expect the bulb to last anywhere from 5 to 7 years.

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Well, it was time to sell my 65″ SONY rear screen projection set. While it gave me 3 years, it had no HDMI connectors. Since, I had an opportunity to sell both my Sony TV and my old Yamaha receiver, I felt it was the time to make a change.

With my newly acquired wealth, I got the Samsung HL67A750 TV. In earlier days, if you wanted an HDTV with a 60″ or larger screen, yout got a rear screen projector. They were MUCH cheaper than a flat panel. Today, the same situation is still true! A SONY 73″ flat screen costs over $10,000! A similar-sized micro display, or rear screen costs about $2,000. The difference is LCD or Plasma. The micro-display reflects a video source on to a screen using some type of mirror configuration.

Doing the research.

Really, there are only two major players in the micro-display market, Samsung and Mitsubishi. Keep in mind, I am a home theater consultant for a local retailer in the Northeast. I have seen fewer returns on the Samsung than the Mitsubishi’s. Unfortunately, we don’t have a track record on the Mitsubishi LaserVue, yet. These are the new sets powered by lasers.

The Pros and Cons.

After narrowing my choices with a lot of internet and dealer research, I decided on the Samsung. Let me explain why.

One, is the previously mentioned reliability factor. Another is that Samsung does not use a bulb for illuminating the screen. It uses LED’s as a built-in backlight. This means no bulbs to replace. Plus, these LED lights are smooth, bright, with the power to provide whatever brightness you want.

This set has a 67″ diagonal screen, which is more than adequate for most home use. Sure, the 70-73″ projection set was available, but it meant having to replace bulbs eventually. Using a bulb as a light source has its pros and cons. While it gives a nice bright light, it dims over time. Once you replace the bulb (at a cost from from $100-$300), it restores the original brightness, which is nice. However, the money for bulbs adds up, if you require numerous replacements.

Without bulbs, this Samsung was a great advantage to me over other TVs. I can get bulbs at cost, so that should tell you something.

The screen has a nice piano black bezel frame, a red/green power light on the lower right, with a large round blue circle showing the set is on. Samsung sets play a little “tune” when they are turned on.

Dust adheres to the screen and the bezel. You will need a special “dust cloth” that cleans dust from a solid surface. Remember, do not put your finger on the screen! The oil from your finger can damage the display.

By the numbers.

Here are some specs…

VIDEO:
Screen Size 67”
Aspect Ratio 16 : 9
Resolution 1920 x 1080
Contrast Ratio 10,000:1
DNIe™ Yes
Digital Noise Reduction Yes

AUDIO:
Sound Effect System TruSurround XT
Sound Output(RMS) 10 W x 2
Input & Output(Side)
HDMI 3
composite (AV) 2
S-Video 1
Input & Output(Back)
HDMI No
composite (AV) No
S-Video No
PC input (D-sub) No
Component(Y/Pb/Pr) No

FEATURES:
Picture-in-Picture Yes
Price $2,399.99
System
Tuners NTSC / ATSC, Clear QAM
Accessory
Dimension
Set size(WXHXD) with stand 60.8″ x 41.5″ x 16.6″
Set size(WXHXD) without stand 60.8″ x 41.5″ x 15.5″
Package size(WXHXD) 60.8″ x 41.5″ x 15.5″

What Impressed Me.

The real advantage is the video/picture is beautiful. It is a true 1080P picture! There are no artifacts, judder, or negative video qualities. The audio is passable. It is probably expected that an audio receiver will be used or a good speaker system. For those without external speaker systems, the sound is fine. It is without any real distortion or muddiness. This includes higher output levels.

The menu has plenty of options to customize the set the way you want. Without giong into all the menu settings, let me just say there are enough options to calibrate the picture the way you want. By switching from STORE MODE to HOME MODE, and using the THX setting, the picture is great! This was minor tweaking, compared to having to redo the entire settings page. Some sets require you to do this. Not this Samsung!

The Bottom Line.

Let me finish by saying if you want a great 67″ set and no need for a bulb, this is it. It is a little too thick to hang on a wall, but works great on a TV stand. Off-axis viewing only becomes a problem outside 160 degrees from the axis. That is is fine for my family room.

The set has a nice design, great picture and adequate sound. Samsung has discontinued this set, so if you are thinking about it, get it!

A side note.

One last thing is the remote. It comes with all the normal “bells & whistles” with one “extra”. When you press the LIGHT button, the backlight displays, which makes it perfect to use in dimly lit or dark rooms!

I think you’ll enjoy the Samsung HL-67A750 67″.

6 months later.

There is a very nice feature I forgot to add. The Samsung has a LINK set-up. To activate it, use MENU and the remote. This ties any HDMI components together through a receiver. When you turn on the TV, the receiver comes on automatically! It does this for my new Blu Ray player, too! Plus, it switches the receiver to the correct input! This is one good use of HDMI connections, despite their troubles.

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Samsung HL67A750 lamp projection tv

TV/Video
• “Piano Key Black” cabinet
• Slim depth and slim bezel (0.6″) – fits where others won’t™
• 1 Tuner Picture-in-Picture
• Samsung CinemaPure™ Color Engine:
- Reliable LED solid state illumination for long life and up to 40% more color and 40% brightness improvement
- Built-in light sensor with beam current feedback insures stable light output over the life of the TV
- Full HD 1920 x 1080p digital format converter for all inputs and TV sources
- Single-panel DLP® design—crystal-clear picture without any possibility of convergence errors
- Smooth, high detail film-like image
• Analog and full digital NTSC/ATSC Tuners with Clear QAM (local channel digital cable capable)
• Single user interface for easy menu surfing
• Energy Star® Compliant (0.8 Watt standby)
• Entertainment mode custom picture settings
• 3D ready—Future-proof your HD experience

Audio
• Watts per channel: 10W x 2
• SRS TruSurround XT™
• Hidden speaker system (DACS™) Connections
• 3 HDMI inputs – 480i/480p/1080i/1080p (60Hz/30Hz/24Hz) input support
- HDMI with universal CEC system control
- Simplay certified for cross component compatibility
• 2-component video inputs (480i/480p/720p/1080i/1080p)
• 2 S-video inputs
• 2 A/V composite inputs
• Wiselink® USB 2.0
• PC (RGB/HDMI) input with 1080p Input Support
• RS232C port for system control

Full system specs in PDF format

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• Product Type 61″ rear projection TV
• Digital Television Certification HDTV
• TV Tuner 1x analog, 1x digital
• Video Interface Component, composite, HDMI, S-Video
• PC Interface VGA (HD-15)
• USB Port Yes
• HDCP compatible Yes

Dimensions Without stand

• Width 54.7 in
• Depth 14.4 in
• Height 37.8 in
• Weight 70.1 lbs
• Enclosure Color Piano black

Display

• Diagonal Size 61″ – widescreen
• Technology Projection
• Projection Display Technology DLP
• Resolution 1920 x 1080
• Display Format 1080p (FullHD)
• Image Aspect Ratio 16:9
• 120Hz Yes
• Dynamic Contrast Ratio 10000:1
• Widescreen Modes Zoom 16:9, Conventional 4:3, Wide Zoom, Zoom, Just
• Display Menu Language English, French, Spanish
• V-Chip Control Yes
• Color Temperature Control Yes (Warm1/Warm2/Normal/Cool1/Cool2)
• Picture Adjustment Custom/Standard/Music/Movie/Speech
• Additional Features On-screen menu, DNIe (Digital Natural Image engine),
  3D HD ready, Cinema Smooth Light Engine

TV Tuner

• Analog TV Tuner NTSC
• Multi-channel Preview Picture-in-picture (PIP) (1 tuner)
• Stereo Reception System MTS
• Secondary Audio Program (SAP) Yes
• Digital TV Tuner
• Digital TV Tuner ATSC

Video Features

• HDTV Ready Yes
• Input Video Formats 480p, 720p, 1080i, 1080p, 480i
• Supported Computer Resolutions 1024 x 768 (XGA), 640 x 480 (VGA), 800 x
  600 (SVGA), 1280 x 1024 (SXGA), 640 x 350, 1360 x 768, 1440 x 900
• Teletext Yes
• Parental Channel Lock Yes

Remote Control

• Type Remote control – infrared

Audio System

• Sound Output Mode Stereo
• Surround Mode Yes
• Sound Effects SRS TruSurround XT
• Audio Controls Equalizer, balance
• Equalizer Yes (5-band)
• Speakers Included 2 speakers
• Output Power / Total 20 Watt
• Additional Features Auto volume adjustment, balance control
• Speaker(s) 2 x right/left channel speaker – built-in – 10 Watt

Connections

• Connector Type 1 x digital audio output (optical) ( TOSLINK ) – side 1 x
  VGA input ( 15 pin HD D-Sub (HD-15) ) – side 1 x audio line-in (
  mini-phone stereo 3.5 mm ) – side 3 x HDMI ( 19 pin HDMI Type A ) – side
  1 x audio line-out ( RCA phono x 2 ) – side 3 x audio line-in ( RCA
  phono x 2 ) – side 2 x component video input ( RCA phono x 3 ) – side 1
  x USB – side 2 x composite video/audio input ( RCA phono x 3 ) – side 1
  x S-Video input ( 4 pin mini-DIN ) – side 1 x serial – side

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